Amaro - An Italian Tradition
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To most of us familiar with Italian cuisine, an Italian meal is not complete without pasta, wine and an espresso to finish. An Italian might suggest that you’ve omitted an important part of the meal - an Amaro. A little more than a year ago, my knowledge of these wonderful bitter-sweet beverages didn’t go beyond Campari (which I drank with club soda and lemon) and Jagermeister (which I hated). After a year with the M’tucci’s family, I have discovered that there is one thing universally loved by management, the chefs and the bartender’s - and that is Amari (plural of Amaro, which means bitter in Italian). Now I love them, too!
Chef/Partner Shawn Cronin brought back four bottles from Italy last summer and says amaro might be one of his favorite beverages. He said if you can find Amaro Nardini - buy it!
The lineup of Amari at M’tucci’s Moderno.
Amanda Romero, the manager at M’tucci’s Moderno, says they are much more than just an aid to digestion.
“I love that each Amaro has different flavors and layers, mixing between bitter, herbal & nutty. Although I have my favorite brands, I will always order an Amaro that I've never tried to see what flavor combinations it has to offer. All Amaro are different which means you can order one no matter your mood! There are sweeter Amaro, extra bitter Amaro, earthy Amaro, the list is endless. My favorite Amaro has remained Cynar,” she said.
David Duran at M’tucci’s Italian created the Pirate’s Cruise, which is based on Cynar, adding Pyrat XO Rum, Frangelico, fresh orange and lime juice, and a bit of cane syrup.
Trey Godwin, manager and bartender at M’tucci’s Italian created a signature coffee drink, the Italian Iced Coffee, using two amari, Campari and Bigalett China China. It’s not just for breakfast!
Spend some time at our bars, or at any bar that cares about the craft of cocktails, and you’ll notice the increasing number of amari on the shelf. There is an Amaro list at Moderno and you can expect to see one at the new M’tucci’s Twenty-Five.
A centuries-old beverage, amari began as healing tonics or elixirs used for medicinal purposes. While there are an astounding number of styles and makers of amaro, nearly all of them begin with a neutral spirit or wine that is macerated with bitter barks, seeds, spices, flowers, vegetables, herbs and citrus peels, then balanced with sugar. Some of the bittering agents include gentian root, angelica root, wormwood and cinchona bark. You might find anise, cardoon, clove, rhubarb, cardamom, licorice and juniper among the herbal profiles. Some amari are barrel-aged for complexity. The recipes are all closely guarded secrets.
The flavor profiles of amari are definitely local. Amari made in the North rely more on the herbs and flowers available in the mountains, while Southern amari might use more citrus peels.
Humans are born with an aversion to bitter flavors and many of us (Americans) have more interest in the flavors: sweet, sour and salty - even umami. So, a little palate education is necessary to appreciate bitter flavors, and we are acquiring that appreciation by drinking IPAs, cocktails with tonic water, and even coffee and tea. Italians embrace bitter foods early in their lives (greens, chocolate, espresso) and consequently have a long history with bitter flavors and especially with amari.
To an Italian a liqueur is an amari if it is consumed after dinner, which would leave Aperol, Campari and many vermouths off of the list. Is a vermouth an amaro? Technically it’s not, but you would have to consider them bitter cousins, vermouth is usually the lower alcohol cousin. Vermouths are a subject for their own future blog post.
For cocktail history and recipes, I refer a lot to the book, “Death & Co. Modern Classic Cocktails” by David Kaplan, Nick Fauchald and Alex Day. Death & Co. is a popular cocktail bar which first opened in Manhattan (NY) and now has locations in Denver and LA. They list a few popular amari and their flavor profiles:
APERITIVO AMARO
Meletti 1870 Bitter: Balance of sweet and spice with mild bitterness.
Aperol: less bitter and more sweet than Campari, probably the most popular in the US
Campari: is versatile as a sipper or a mixer. You couldn’t have a Negroni without Campari, which has a higher alcohol content and a stronger flavor profile than Aperol.
DIGESTIVO AMARO
Amaro Averna: Described as tasting like Coca-Cola.
Amaro Meletti: Produced in Ascoli Piceno since 1870, it has a distinctive nose of violets with flavors of saffron and anise.
Amaro Nardini: has a menthol flavor similar to Fernet-Branca, but isn’t as bitter
Amaro Nonino Quintessentia: Subtle and approachable, the grappa based amaro is flavored with alpine herbs and is my favorite - so far.
Cynar: thought there is an artichoke on the bottle, it really doesn’t taste like artichokes, but has a flavor profile that transitions from sweet to sharp and citrusy with some vegetal notes.
Fernet-Branca: “This is amaro on crack with an aggressive medicinal, mentholated flavor profile.” Comment from the Death & Co. cocktail book.
Try this recipe, a riff on an Old-Fashioned, from Death & Co.’s book “Cocktail Codex”. It uses two amari, so you don’t need to use bitters or sugar.
1.5 oz. Amaro Nonino
3/4 oz. Germain Robin Brandy
1/4 oz. Amaro Meletti
6 drops of a salt solution
Stir ingredients over ice, strain into an Old-Fashioned glass over 1 large cube. Express an orange twist over the glass, gently rub it on the rim and place it into the drink.
The interesting, but also frustrating thing about amaro is that there are no regulations or rules about what constitutes an amaro. So, in order to discover what you like, you’ll have to experiment with different labels. Or come see us, we have a growing collection and we’re always happy to steer you in the right direction.
NEWS FROM M’TUCCI’S
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
M’TUCCI’S TWENTY-FIVE JOB FAIR + ONLINE APPLICATIONS
4949 Pan American Highway NW, Albuquerque, NM - Next to Tomasita’s - South of Jefferson
THIS WEEKEND
Saturday, January 11 from 10:00am - 4:00pm * Sunday, January 12 from Noon - 5:00pm
We are looking for skilled and motivated servers, kitchen staff and bartenders. You can apply for a position at any of our locations online by clicking here. Applicants should come to the job fair with a resume and should have completed the online application.
It’s Penne Bolognese, but a new look for a new restaurant!
M’tucci’s @ Lava Rock Brewing Company
You are going to love the new eggplant parmesan sandwich. Pair it with the new Birra M’tucci’s, an Italian lager. A refreshing new beer, made in the international pilsner style with Perle and Saphir hops.
Another beer in the works is a Red Ale, which will be aged in the bourbon barrel in which the M’tucci’s Maker’s Mark Private Select was aged.
Happy Hour Monday - Friday 3:00 - 6:30
Happy Hour Menu features The Burger, a 10” Margherita or Pepperoni Green Chile Pizza, Charcuterie Boards and Wings for $7, . $1 off all pints. You can catch your favorite team on one of our large five screens.
Saturday - Monday Football Special. Growler/Pizza Deal! Free growler bottle when you pay for the beer, plus $7 Margherita & Pepperoni Pizzas TO GO ONLY!
$5 basket of Wings all day for the NFL Playoffs Saturday and Sunday
Live Music at Lava Rock, we’ll have live music every Thursday from 6:00 - 8:00 and Fridays from 8:00 - 10:00.
January Live Music - Thursdays @ 6:00 and Fridays @ 8:00
1/10 - David Vigil
1/16 - Stanlie Kee & 1/17 - Kyle Martin
1/23 - Melissa Rios & 1/24 - Cali Shaw
1/30 - Oscar Butler & 1/31 - Mario DeHuerta
M’tucci’s Italian
Weekend Specials
Cut of the Day - 24 oz Hand Cut Porterhouse, Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus and a Balsamic Reduction
Pan-Seared Fish - Mahi Mahi, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichoke, Arugula, Lemon Caper Sauce
Braised - Slow-Roasted Fennel/Orange Duck, Sautéed Asparagus, Caramelized Onion, Kale, Fennel Cream Sauce, Pappardelle Pasta
Ravioli - Lamb & Goat Cheese Ravioli, Sun Dried Tomatoes, Shallots, Wild Mushroom Rosemary Cream Sauce
M’tucci’s Moderno
Weekend Specials
Fried Chicken and Risotto
Carnaroli risotto, wild mushrooms, carrots, celery tossed with wild mushroom soup and topped with Italian fried chicken.
Pairing -Tormaresca, Chardonnay, Abruzzo, Italy Scents of pineapple and peach, floral notes of daisy and jasmine with a balanced acidity and fruity aftertaste.
Pan-Seared Swordfish
It has a medium firm texture with a sweet nutty flavor. Pan-seared and served with creamy garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed organic arugula and grilled artichokes. Topped with a lemon caper butter sauce and smoked prosciutto powder.
Pairing - Ruffino, Sparkling Rose, Italy Crisp bubbly texture with notes of strawberry and hints of rose petals.
Cut of the Day is a Chianina Flat Iron Steak
Chianina is a breed of cattle only raised in a few areas of Italy, prized for its marbling and flavor. Grilled to perfection and served with our crispy saltwater potatoes, grilled asparagus and a traditional Italian Salsa Verde.
Pairing - Tercos Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, Aromas of blackberries and black cherry, great volume and depth with a long finish of soft tannins
Live Music
Tonight 8:00: Cali Shaw
1/16: RJ Perez
1/17: Leah Leyva
